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Trolltunga

Norway is known for its nice landscapes, deep fjords, mountains, and iconic natural landmarks. One of those landmarks had been on my bucket list for years: Trolltunga. On July 6th, 2021, me and Roxanne finally made the hike.

Trolltunga: me and Roxanne

Getting There

Living in Bergen, I’m lucky to have access to some of Norway’s most beautiful hiking areas close by. The Vestland region is full of trails, but Trolltunga is something special. It’s a bit of a drive, about 3 hours to Skjeggedal, where the main trailhead is located, but totally worth it, and if you find a cosy Airbnb like we did, it’s just perfect. We found a small cabin in the woods just by the fjord with our own water terrace.

We woke up very early in the morning to make to be at the parking opening time, you can go up to the closes parking only after 6 in the morning.

The Hike

The hike to Trolltunga is no small feat. It’s a 20 km round trip with about 1,200 meters of elevation gain, and it typically takes 6 to 10 hours depending on your pace and the conditions. The trail starts off steep, with the first few kilometers being the toughest. We had very rainy weather during the first elevation, at some point we were soaked to the bone and had to stop under a rock. We were regretting going up there, even with our rain clothes.

After a while the weather open a bit and stopped raining completely, enough to get us dry again. The fog came again but we still managed to see some greate views over the Ringedalsvatnet lake and the surrounding mountains. Every time we stopped for a break, the views were just incredible.

Reaching the iconic “tongue”

After several hours of steady hiking, we finally reached Trolltunga, the famous rock formation that juts out horizontally over a 700-meter drop. I’d seen countless photos of it online, but nothing prepares you for seeing it in person. It’s very well camouflaged because we were trying to find it from afar during the hike when we got closer but could never see it until we’re right on top of it and saw other tourists.

The edge is pretty scary, feels strange to be standing on it. We layed down, belly down, and peeked over the edge. It was a surreal experience, the drop really makes you feel small. We exchanged pictures with other hikers, we took theirs when they were on the rock, and they took ours when it was our turn.

The Way Back

The return hike was naturally tougher on the legs, especially after the adrenaline from reaching the top wore off. But we had stopped by the rock for not less then 1 hours, and it was enought to rest a bit. Halfway back the sun became really strong and and the last part it was really tought and we were exausted.

We made it back to the parking lot, tired but proud.

Final Thoughts

Trolltunga was one of the most demanding hikes I’ve done so far, but also one of the most rewarding. The combination of challenging terrain, breathtaking views, and that iconic photo opportunity makes it a must-do for anyone visiting Norway.

If you’re thinking about hiking Trolltunga, here’s my quick advice:

Now, some years later, I want to do it again, maybe via ferrata or in the winter with guides.

Rafa Morais Santos